|
Asphalt Shingles
- Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This
includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units,
pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations.
Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will
expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is
asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt
shingles.
- If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae,
install some zinc or lead control strips.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not
deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc
control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
- Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs.
One dab on either side should do.
- Replace any damaged shingles.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the
downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the
rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is
prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation
and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking
International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA
91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. It works very
well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar
product afterward.
- Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove
any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean
the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary.
Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or
equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both
in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or
deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can
perform this work.
Built-Up and Modified Bitumen
Roofs
- Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This
includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units,
pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations.
Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will
expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is
asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt
shingles.
- If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are
some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly
using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to
remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and
sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin
layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area
about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from
other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not
deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t
separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need
to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done
easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
- Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR
PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to
patch them.
- Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the
filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the
downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in
the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in.
If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get
them working properly. Drains will often leak if they
are holding water.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and
copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather
cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a
wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking
such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both
in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or
deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can
perform this work.
Single-Ply Roofs
- Remove all debris from the roof surface. This
includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws,
unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have
only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets
stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then
eventually there will be a leak.
- Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they
need to be patched as soon as possible.
- Check all flashings and make sure that they are not
deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
- Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t
separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need
to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done
easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
- Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT
STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified
contractor to patch them.
- Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the
filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
- Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the
downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
- Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in
the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in.
If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get
them working properly. Drains will often leak if they
are holding water.
- Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
- Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and
copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather
cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a
wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking
such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
- Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both
in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or
deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can
perform this work.
|